technical

Making a pressure brake bleeder

I just finished bleeding the brakes on my '68 and it was made simple by the use of a home made pressure bleeder that I made from a 1 gallon sprayer.

I have found that bleeding the rear brakes on my cars in the past was very difficult even with my wife pumping the brake pedal while I was using the Mityvac.
Well today I decided to build a cheap/simple brake bleeding machine. I took a new 1 gallon sprayer, a half gallon sprayer would work a bit better and be easier to store but I couldn't find one, fitted a cheap pressure gauge to the upper side of it, and then used a couple of brass fittings and a piece of tin from a can to fit inside an old brake bottle cap. After attaching this to the line from the sprayer gave me a way to pressurize the system. 

Oil is killing our cars

This was posted on the TR6 bulletin board I frequent.....and thanks for the Cape Cod Car Club for getting this info out there.

http://www.british-cars.co.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=trbbs&exiturl=http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php%3Ft=839

Bottom line:  Read this very carefully if you are building or breaking in a new  engine.

Rod

Point-Saver Electronic Ignition/6 mo later

June 7th, 2007

Sending the unit back, the manufacture of the unit indicated that some of the "Deluxe" units with the rev limiter have developed a glitch  and start cutting out at 3K rpm.  He offered a full refund or exchange for the reg unit.  I will probably change to different type unless he is able to resolve the issue fairly quickly.

 

June 4th, 2007

OK, I did it, talked it up and now it's dead! Last week the car started missing at about 4K rpm, then at about 3.5 K . Turned it off and the car runs fine on the points/condenser. As I mentioned in an earlier post the unit has an on and off switch that allows the user to switch from the PSD to points/condenser. Guess that switch is there for a reason. I'll keep you posted.

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